Well freezing mouse anyway.
I have a Microsoft 2000 wireless mouse which froze up the other day.
Pointer stuck. Keyboard, computer were still going ok.
Never happened before. I then searched, found and plugged in an old USB one and that worked.
I re-booted via the USB mouse and after it all restarted all was back to normal.
I checked on the WWW about this and read the following about Frozen Mice:
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"If the cursor is not moving, type “devmgmt.msc” in the Windows Run box to open the Device manager. Since the mouse is not working, you can press Win+R to access the Run box.
Expand the “Mice and other pointing devices” section, highlight your mouse listing and then select “Uninstall”. Then choose Action – > Scan for Hardware Changes and this should bring your mouse back to life."
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So I actually got that Device manager opened, and without a mouse!
But gloom soon struck as I couldn't select/highlight or choose any of those
funny named things....cause my mouse would be stuck frozen !
What am I missing here?
How does one select that "Mice and other pointing devices" by using the keyboard only?
Does it require some special software?
Thanks.
Hi Colin,
The TAB key is the ticket. This will cycle you through every option on a screen. SHIFT TAB will cycle in the reverse direction.
Once highlighted, the SPACE BAR will select it, then hit the RETURN key to finalize it.
Everything that can be done with a mouse can be accomplished with the keyboard if the screen you are looking at follows the Windows interface standards.
Richard
Aha !
So that's it.
Nice to know..just in case.
Thanks, Richard.
Just a bit OT but this wireless mouse has two AA cells but functions perfectly with just one AA.
I'm wondering if when two are used then they are wired in parallel?
Must be I guess or it wouldn't work.
Or each cell powers a different circuit but only one is required?
Or..?
It's not a very good idea to power a low current device with parallel cells as one cell can bleed into the other and start a see-sawing event !!
Actually can make the cells discharge into each other and not prolong life at all.
Anyway. Interesting, I guess.
Colin B: How long have you had your Microsoft 2000 wireless keyboard/mouse? I got one recently and am very pleased with the performance. BTW, did you download and install the driver from Microsoft for the units? I did and had to remove it as it caused nothing but trouble.
Richard: You are right. Batteries in series like 2 AA, AAA, C or D which are 1.5 volts by themselves, become 3 volts. To increase the current, they are put in parallel, yet I did not know some manufactures use this practice.
And when using batteries in electronic devices, best to use alkaline, as they have a longer shelf life and do not lose their voltage as quickly as the cheaper batteries, Mindblower!
"For the needy, not the greedy"
Indeed .
!.4volt cells...they are not really batteries... which is considered normal now will deliver a higher current when wired in parallel..But with wireless mice/keyboard using cmos not ttl logic then the current draw is measured in microamps or very low milliamps. Having cells in parallel in very low current devices may not be best practise. Unless you are selling 🙂
For instance..
I've had my setup here with my wireless gear for about two years?
I've found my AA replacement time to easily double by the use of only 1 AA cell.
So I only use the one EverReady AA cell in my mouse and leave the other holder empty.
Try it and see.
I'd love to know the results.
I'm way ahead of that idea Colin B. Yesterday when I pulled one AA I noticed the mouse was still working. Still working today, so I'll try and post the results when the mouse fails. That's why I find it strange a manufacture would try and insure more current is required, as you so neatly mentioned, the draw is so tiny. Strange that the keyboard uses 4 AAA though.
I found one keyboard/mouse combo that uses solar cells, making no use of batteries. Only fault being it was an English/French unit where some of the keys were in different locations, Mindblower!
"For the needy, not the greedy"
Hello there, Mindblower..
Thanks for trying that and it will be interesting to see your outcomes.
Yes, it's not good practice to keep batteries or cells permanently connected in parallel.
Series is Ok as there is no battery/cell usage until the circuit is completed.
But in parallel there is always a little leakage from one cell/battery to it's partner even with the switch off !!!
And when milliamps are concerned as in a Mouse, then this leakage might easily be equal to or even more than the Mouse alone would use/draw !
...And this stuff will occur even with the Mouse switched Off.
I guess that's why just one AA cell lasts better, it's not trying to "charge" it's neighbour or be "charged" by it's neighbour? 🙂
AArrgghh I need a long rest
Interesting though
Surprise, surprise. Today using the wireless mouse with only one battery, it died (stopped working). Did notice that for several days now, the light on top was flashing (thought this was the warning to change the battery/batteries). Sure enough, replacing the battery solved the problem, but the life is kind of short. Guess I do use the mouse, though would 2 batteries extend the life (?), Mindblower!
"For the needy, not the greedy"
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